How to alter a wool sweater

January 27, 2008 at 2:05 pm | In Clothes and Style, Crafts, Sewing, Vintage |

sweater scraps

Here are some step-by-step instructions on how I turned a boxy vintage cashmere cardigan into a much more fitted and flattering sweater.

My grandmother gave me this gorgeous rose pink vintage cashmere sweater a couple years back and though I’ve worn it from time to time, it was really too big for me and felt really frumpy. I finally took action and could not be happier with the result. It’s very quick and simple. I will no longer sadly put those oversized vintage sweaters back on the rack at Thrift Town.

sweater before alterations

First, turn the sweater inside out and try it on.

sweater inside out

Next, pinch off the extra fabric at the side seams, up through the underarm. You’ll want to gently grade the seam toward the wrist so that there are no sharp angles in your seam.

sweater with pins

Baste these seams in place and try the sweater on again to insure a good fit. Look for any gaping at the bust, and raise your arms to make sure the sweater is comfortable.

sweater basted

Machine stitch over the basting and trim, leaving a wide allowance of at least 3/4 inch. Now, if your sweater is old and somewhat felted already (as mine is), you don’t need any special finishing, though you can zigzag stitch the selvedge if you like. Otherwise, I recommend serging to prevent fraying.

sweater stitched

Here is my new and improved fitted sweater:

finished sweater

With the scraps that are left over from trimming your seams, you can fashion a fabric rose and sew or pin it to the lapel.

sweater with rose

Et voila! I may still change the buttons, as I find them a bit stark. But overall, this is much more wearable.

sweater with rose

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52 Comments »

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  1. Beautiful. Would you mind posting how you did the rose? Thanks!

    Comment by Lara Lawlor — January 27, 2008 #

  2. awesome tutorial! i can’t wait to do this.

    Comment by bardot — January 27, 2008 #

  3. Goodness, the altered sweater is fabulous. I love the rose pin with it.

    Comment by Stephanie — January 27, 2008 #

  4. Excellent!! I’ve been meaning to try this on a thrifted sweater, and your post just jogged my memory! hehe. I guess I know what I’m keeping an eye open for on my weekly thrifting trip…

    Comment by Casey — January 27, 2008 #

  5. Wonderful job! I love the addition of the rose.

    Comment by Staar — January 28, 2008 #

  6. Thank you so much for posting this. Now I know what to do with the frumpy vintage sweaters that I love but don’t wear.

    Comment by Jody — January 28, 2008 #

  7. Thanks guys, I’m really glad stuff like this is useful to others!

    Lara: I’ve been meaning to post some fabric fabric flower instructions for a while now. I made a few different ones recently to use some scraps. I’ll try to get to this soon!

    Comment by Sarai — January 28, 2008 #

  8. Oh! I’m so happy you had the courage to do this and share with us. I have a thrifted sweater I want to turn into a ballet wrap for dance but have never had the nerve to cut it. Thanks for the inspiration and great job on your sweater!

    Comment by Tara — January 28, 2008 #

  9. Wow! That looks amazing. You have such a gift.

    Comment by Lucia — January 28, 2008 #

  10. i love this!

    Comment by sizzle — January 28, 2008 #

  11. That is so adorable!

    Comment by Rita — January 28, 2008 #

  12. Hey, thanks for posting this! I tried it out to my white cardigan today and it worked great! My flower however, did not come out as nice as yours. Can’t wait for you to post a tutorial on that! :)

    Comment by Beca — January 28, 2008 #

  13. [...] results. proof positive: these ridiculously cute handpainted shoes by made with love by hannah and this sweet sweater re-tooling by sarai of sweet sassafrass (who’s apparently a fellow SF’can!) (via craft) -good [...]

    Pingback by bits and bobbins » archives » (not so) random links — January 28, 2008 #

  14. Pretty!

    Comment by Rachel — January 28, 2008 #

  15. How clever! I love finding ways to use things!
    ~Elaine~

    Comment by Elaine — January 28, 2008 #

  16. [...] Sari of Sweet Sassafras took a boxy vintage cashmere sweater and refashioned it into a more fitted and cuter version complete with a flower adornment. Find out how you can do this too in her tutorial. Link. [...]

    Pingback by Craft Paper Online Blog » Blog Archive » Refashioned Cardigan — January 28, 2008 #

  17. It might be cuter if you further shorten the length of the sweater to just below your breast. Currently this is in for asian fashion

    Comment by pingee — January 29, 2008 #

  18. It’s really adorable!

    Comment by Nicki — January 29, 2008 #

  19. This looks fantastic! Now why did i never think of doing this to knitted garments. I will now. It’s a shame how my White Lies Angelina Vintage Jacket cant be fixed in the same way.

    Comment by Scarlet — January 29, 2008 #

  20. Awesome tute! Thanks! The sweater is a beautiful color and is much more complimentary now! Im going to track back on my blog!

    Comment by Chrystine — January 29, 2008 #

  21. Very clever!

    Comment by Linda — January 29, 2008 #

  22. my, mmmy, that’s so purty.

    Comment by Katie — January 29, 2008 #

  23. Great recon! You really turned that into a fantastic sweater. Slight OT - but what kind of dress form do you have?

    Comment by Christine — January 29, 2008 #

  24. Just found your blog (thanks to Craft). Thanks for the sweater tip and for the vintage pattern links. I can’t wait to spend some time digging through those. Now I just need to learn how to read patterns…
    -Tanya

    Comment by sweetcheese — January 29, 2008 #

  25. What a GREAT way to recycle a sweater! It makes me what to go to the trift store and see what I can alter after I work on what I have at home.

    Thanks!

    Comment by Ivon — January 31, 2008 #

  26. [...] up because, come on, it’s cashmere! This tutorial solves that age-old problem. Check it out here! Sweet Sassafras is a fantastic San Francisco crafter with a great aesthetic; her page is highly [...]

    Pingback by Knit.1 Magazine Blog — January 31, 2008 #

  27. Oh! I think the rose is my favorite part. Great idea!

    Comment by Kelly — February 1, 2008 #

  28. [...] words on making creativity personal ♥ gorgeous Japanese sewing book images ♥ alter a thrift-store sweater into something really chic! ♥ 50 suggestions to save those “bad days” ♥ a valentine’s day sweet [...]

    Pingback by :: friday favorites + sweet surprises:: « elegant musings — February 1, 2008 #

  29. I love this. I’ve to give it a go. I have a few sweaters in mind for this project.

    Comment by Nancy — February 1, 2008 #

  30. [...] How to alter a wool sweater - So that it actually fits. [...]

    Pingback by Recommended Reads for December 5th through February 5th at Faux Real — February 6, 2008 #

  31. [...] Voi-la! You can read about her whole instruction here. [...]

    Pingback by How to alter a wool sweater... at talk about mi — February 7, 2008 #

  32. [...] a tutorial I’m positive you will love: how to alter a boxy vintage cashmere sweater into a more flattering fitted shape, found via elegant [...]

    Pingback by The Space Between My Peers » Just Linking: February 8, 2008 — February 8, 2008 #

  33. I love your creativity. How inspiring!

    Comment by Tiffany — February 11, 2008 #

  34. Excellent idea. So pretty!

    Comment by Elaine — February 18, 2008 #

  35. That is really impressive. Well done - I particularly like the flower embellishment you added!

    Comment by MrPuffy — February 18, 2008 #

  36. That’s a tough act to follow, which I rearly do,, and I thought I was the only one with this kinda thinking. When I came back to NY from Fla ,I found all my old turtle neck cotton shirts and undershirts and the turtle neck was driving me crazy so I cut it off and surged it, then since I lost so much weight every thing was too big and boxy, so I did nearly the same thing with the first one and it came out so comfy, I didn’t want to take it off. I had found a shirt in St Pete that I just loved because it fit so snug, so I made it my pattern and turned it inside out and laid it over the one I wanted to cut and cut away, then took it to the surger and voila it was done, today I put one on and I layer everything just to keep warm, the one today had a v neck and I had not done one this way, but again I laid the top over the under one and cut and surged and it came out great. I also cut off any hem or sleve edge so it’s not bulky, and the surger gives a little ruffle. I also cut the toe out of my tights and wear socks instead, today I had 2 ladies comment to me on what a great look I had. I’s a gift.lol Happy to share it with y’all Lola

    Comment by Lola — February 22, 2008 #

  37. Great tutorial for those who want to keep the sweater in its original form! My only sadness would be that it then renders the yarn unrecycleable for future knitting projects (since you’re now cutting it into short strands) but in this particular case that’s not a problem. :)

    Comment by Cyn — February 23, 2008 #

  38. really like the transformation
    really don’t like the rose

    Comment by Jordan — February 23, 2008 #

  39. Wow, this is great. Now I can actually turn that closet full of outdated sweaters into something fun.

    Thanks.

    Comment by Robin — February 25, 2008 #

  40. Sad you have not yet published the instructions for making the flower/rose……..soon?

    Comment by Una — February 26, 2008 #

  41. I have several sweaters and a few t-shirts that are in need of similar renovations. One day I’ll actually get on them.

    Comment by Debra — February 26, 2008 #

  42. Una: I’ll try to get to it soon, but I just moved so things are are getting still getting settled in my world right now.

    Comment by Sarai — February 26, 2008 #

  43. wow this is great! i would keep the buttons it’s a nice contrast :)

    Comment by sarahelizabeth — March 10, 2008 #

  44. Fabulous work! It looks GREAT!

    Comment by jaimee — March 11, 2008 #

  45. Beautifully done!

    Comment by byABPryor — March 13, 2008 #

  46. [...] Happy Day posted a link today to a blog I’d never seen before, called Sweet Sassafras. The writer, Sarai, has a wonderful tutorial for altering a boxy cardigan. I’ve run into [...]

    Pingback by The Litabug Phlog » Photos of Boston and other oddities — March 24, 2008 #

  47. Have you ever altered a sweater that’s just a bit too short into a shrug or cropped cardigan?? I’m tempted to try it on a wool sweater that I love, but just can’t wear anymore.

    Comment by Julie Richardson — March 25, 2008 #

  48. What a wonderful idea. Your cardigan looks beautiful! I love the flower detail.

    Comment by Patricia Scarpin — March 26, 2008 #

  49. Not too computer savvy, just stumbled upon this site after searching for sweater alterations. Released 3 dresses, have narrow shoulders, lovely sweaters, some with set in sleeves and wish to alter. I love the work done here, but read somewhere that machine knitted garments shud not be cut. Any help here??

    Comment by Gloria — April 8, 2008 #

  50. Gloria: Most knitted garments will fray or unravel if you cut them, unless they’re old and have become partially felted like this one. Many many vintage pieces are this way. If you have a serger, this can help you out though. Most machine knitted garments are actually cut from a larger piece to begin with and the edges are serged to prevent fraying.

    Comment by Sarai — April 9, 2008 #

  51. This is so gorgeous! i don’t suppose you know how to dye cashmere? I have inherited a beautifal cashmere top in a blechy beige colour. Oh for garnet red of simple black!

    Comment by Em — April 16, 2008 #

  52. Em, here’s a post I wrote on sweater dyeing:
    http://www.sweetsassafras.org/2008/02/15/straw-into-gold/

    I haven’t dyed cashmere myself, but since it too is a natural fiber, I don’t see any reason why it would be different. Though you would need to be very gentle with it!

    Comment by Sarai — April 16, 2008 #

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